You might wonder why I’m still noodling about spaghetti and tomato sauce after publishing my last post, a fairly definitive update on the state of Italy’s favorite–and undeniably most emblematic–dish. Ever since spaghetti al pomodoro con basilico left the slopes of Vesuvius, its birthplace, to seek fame and fortune elsewhere, its reputation has been sullied by foreign cooks. Such has been the fate of all Italian food, but last week’s International Day of Italian Cuisines, as reported in my earlier post, was an attempt by a legion of native Italian chefs to set the record straight about the “official” recipe. Done. Basta. Right? Wrong! There was a hue and cry from Italians and non-Italians alike–not only about what the official recipe is (surprise!), but whether anyone cares. Here’s a sampling of comments to chew on.
Illustration from “Setbacks for Spaghetti,” an article by Massimo Alberini in Italian Wines & Spirits, Vol. 23, December, 1999
Am I becoming cynical.. ?… but I am wondering what in the world will a worldwide campaign to promote this dish do for Italian cuisine and its place among the cuisines of this planet? Maybe I am missing some important point and you can help me. But I guess, in all fairness, I cannot forget the jingle – “Riunite on Ice, It’s So Nice” and how that eventually sparked a revolution of Italian wine drinking leading to impressive wine lists today? Will a much debated authentic spaghetti al pomodoro lead the way to greater recipe challenges and other Italian culinary patrimonies? Am finding it difficult to wrap my arms around all this? Is this the ultimate back to basics? Hope no one is going to suggest serving it on a red checkered table cloth with a dripping candle stuck in a straw Chianti wine flask?—BB, Queens, NYC
Yes, exactly, return to the basics. The “new” new is the “old” old. Let’s return to the good values, the values of good hand made food. To: less is more, simplicity, honesty, integrity.—Beatrice Ughi, Gustiamo, Bronx, NYC
I think it’s incredible that they have to declare an official recipe when it seems the official recipe is always your mother’s. I noticed that in the photos of the chefs, they all seem to be men?—Jacqueline Greaves, NYC
… And now I’ll publish the official recipe for fried eggs, and for bread and butter.—Davide Azzolini, Napoli (Italy)
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