May 152014
 

Once, Italian merchants were on their own looking for markets to sell their goods. Today, the Italian Trade Commission facilitates commerce between Italian businesses and the U.S., among other countries, sending buyers, and journalists like myself throughout its twenty regions to explore products for export to an American public that is dazzled by the stroke of that fine Italian hand. My mission on a recent trip to the Mostra Internazionale dell’Artigianato (78th International Handicrafts Trade Fair) in Florence, sponsored by the I.T.C., was to ply the  stalls of Italian food and wine producers coming from all over Italy for exceptional traditional and new products alike. What I found was a stunning variety of artisanal foods of astonishing imagination and quality, by-products of a people with an intimate and a centuries-old connection to working the land. This post will be an overview of the exhibition to spotlight some of the foods and artisans who make them, mostly through photographs by my husband and collaborator, Nathan Hoyt, with my comments. Subsequent articles about specific artisans and their products will follow, both on this site, and in my column in Zester Daily, to which I will provide links.

The Duomo, Florence. Brunelleschi's dome in the background. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

The Duomo, Florence. Brunelleschi’s dome in the background. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

At the Piazza del Duomo. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

At the Piazza del Duomo. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Journalists and buyers from around the world attended the 78th show of artisanal products in Florence, Italy this year. From the U.S., myself, front right, Greg Patent, Paolo Doino, to my right, Frances Mercado (Gustiamo), right, Franco Gallo (missing here), Marlena Soieler, left. Credit: Firenze Fiera

Journalists and buyers from around the world attended the 78th show of artisanal products in Florence, Italy this year. Representing the U.S., myself, in pink; Paolo Doino to my right; Frances Mercado from Gustiamo, second from right; Greg Patent, right; Marlena Spieler, wearing green; Franco Gallo, missing. Nathan Hoyt, second from left. Credit: Firenze Fiera

Salumi producers from Lazio, a region with a lusty cuisine and strong opinions about food and wine. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Salumi producers from Lazio, a region with a lusty cuisine and strong opinions about food and wine. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Buyer, Franco Gallo of Panorama International, San Francisco, with the Morelli pork salumi artisans. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Discriminating buyer, Franco Gallo of Panorama International, San Francisco, with the Morelli pork salumi artisans. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Looking at the impressive range of artisanal foods available at Florence Unicoop supermarket with Miami buyer, Paolo Doino. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Looking at the impressive range of artisanal foods available at Florence Unicoop supermarket’s pavillion at the fair with expert buyer, Paolo Doino of ItalCibus, Miami. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Asking the master pastaia from Emilia-Romagna how she forms the stuffed pasta for production. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Asking the master pastaia from Pastificcio Vignola, Emilia-Romagna, how she forms the stuffed pasta for production. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Tortellini are formed by machine, the larger cappellacci, by hand. The dough consists of nothing but 00 flour and whole eggs, resulting in a porous but pliable pasta that doesn’t stick to the machine. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Various stages of pecorino (sheep cheese), Sardinia's biggest export. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Artisan pecorino (sheep cheese) from Sardinia is the pastoral island’s biggest export. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Sardinia's famous sheep cheeses, primo sale (first salting, foreground), semi staggionato (partially aged, center), staggionato (aged, background). Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Sardinia’s famous sheep cheeses, primo sale (first salting, foreground), semi staggionato (partially aged, center), staggionato (aged, background). Credit: Nathan Hoyt

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Alessandro Pintadu from Tula, Sardinia, specializes in honey and fruit preserves at Azienda Agricola Areste. We’re eating their unusual, exceptionally tart lemon preserves by the spoonfuls! Credit: Nathan Hoyt

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The Mediterranean’s garden island, Sardinia, in a jar.

Azienda Agricola Areste is a family affair. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

It’s a family affair. Owner Daniela’s father, Giuseppe Scarpellino minds the marmellate.

Focaccia at the Sardinia stall. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

The Sards are masters of bread. Focaccia at the Sardinia stall. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Slab pancetta from Sardinia, spicier than expected, gorgeous on that flat bread. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Slab pancetta from Sardinia, spicier than expected, gorgeous on that flat bread. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

A world of Puglia's taralli, delectable crunchy cracker knots made with the region's own wheat and extra-virgin olive oil, baked in wood-fired ovens. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

A world of Puglia’s taralli, delectable crunchy cracker knots made with the region’s own wheat and extra-virgin olive oil, baked in wood-fired ovens. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

The classic fennel or hot pepper varieties and a plethora of new flavors, sweet and savory. Photo: Nathan Hoyt

The classic fennel or hot pepper varieties and a plethora of new flavors, sweet and savory. Photo: Nathan Hoyt

More bread from Puglia, land of wheat and olives. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

More bread from Puglia, land of wheat and olives. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Vendor selling porcini from Italy and Eastern Europe tells us the Italian mushrooms are incomparable in flavor. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

A vendor selling porcini from Italy and Eastern Europe tells us the Italian mushrooms are incomparable in flavor. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Potent Tuscan porcini, rich and meaty with ample white flesh, examples of the best. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Potent Tuscan porcini, rich and meaty with ample white flesh, examples of the best. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Stupendous salumi from Calabria are cut on a manual vintage slicer made in 1949. Prosciutto samples, anyone? ItalCibus buyer Paolo Doino, right, his niece, Flavia, at left.

Stupendous salumi from Calabria are cut on a manual vintage slicer made in 1949. Prosciutto samples, anyone? ItalCibus buyer Paolo Doino, right, his niece, Flavia, at left, along to learn. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Salumi sliced by manual machine keeps the taste and mouth feel of the meat intact in comparison to modern electric slicers, whose heat slightly cooks the meat, not the desired result. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Salumi sliced by manual machine keeps the taste and mouth feel of the meat intact in comparison to modern electric slicers, whose heat slightly cooks the meat. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

An explosion of umami, sensational Gorgonzola dolce (fresh, creamy Gorgonzola) blended with fresh white truffle, arguably the most astonishing of all the dizzying delights of the show. Cheese from Lombardy, truffles from Piemonte. Credit: Nat Hoyt

An explosion of umami, sensational Gorgonzola dolce (fresh, creamy Gorgonzola) blended with fresh white truffle, arguably the most astonishing of all the dizzying delights of the show. Cheese from Lombardy, truffles from Piemonte. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

So delicious, it almost hurts. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Is it possible that I’ve never eaten anything this delicious? Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Arrivederci, Mostra Internazionale di Artigianato and four days of delicious eating, fascinating craftsmanship. Grazie Taste Real Italy and the Italian Trade Commission for new insights on extraordinary Italian artisan culture. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

Arrivederci, Mostra Internazionale di Artigianato and four days of delicious eating, fascinating craftsmanship. Grazie Taste Real Italy and the Italian Trade Commission for new insights on extraordinary Italian artisan culture. Credit: Nathan Hoyt

The American love affair with Italian food has only just begun. Merchants and storytellers have always spread food cultures abroad, and they still do. There is so much more to discover and report.  Stay tuned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  10 Responses to “On the Road: That Fine Italian Hand”

  1. Wonderful write-up, Julia, and kudos to your delicious photos, Nat. I was right there with you, and the photos brought everything alive again. Mille grazie a tutte due.

  2. You have so much fun! Would have loved to join you on this tour! Everything looks amazing! What no Sardinian cheese with worms….yes, I know, they are not “allowed” to sell it! It’s so hard to tear oneself away from so many wonderful things…love the photos! I would be very interested in the gorgonzola dolce and white truffles, sounds incredible!

    • No, that cheese wasn’t at the show, Phyllis! I’m grateful my husband loves both food and photography, and takes great pictures. They enable me to draw you all in. I will be organizing tours again and will post any news about that here. Hope to meet you in person one of these days!

  3. This is my dream vacation, Julia! It’s funny, but for some women it’s jewelry stores. For me, it’s the food markets. I love to try new foods, and every time Bart and I pass a new food purveyor or go to the Italian Market he knows he must steel himself for a marathon shopping session. If he ever complains about the amount of time I spend in the food shops talking to vendors and checking out new products, I always say “Look at the bright side honey, I could be a jewelry freak.” That always calms him down! I enjoy writing about new food items I try, and I particularly enjoy introducing others to the glory that is the world of food items manufactured in Italy. I look forward to reading about your “finds.”

  4. What an amazing experience Julia! My heart is still palpitating after seeing all your photos! More please…

  5. Julia, this is great! As Greg said, it brought everything right back to life. Nat! Great photography!
    Grazie mille!

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