A Whiff of Spring, a Waft of Rome

 Posted by at 9:47 am  3 Responses »
Mar 312013
 
A Whiff of Spring, a Waft of Rome

At long last, a streak of warm sunlight beams through my kitchen window. The day brings to mind Easters in Rome and the city’s abbacchio, butter-tender baby lamb, and the first artichokes of spring. No one, but no one, makes lamb and artichokes taste better than the Romans, though my mother would disagree. Being from Sardinia (Sardegna) where some of the best artichokes in the world grow under that island’s blazing sun, the thistles are a religion in her house. In a region where there are nearly twice as many sheep as people (some 3,000,000 of them to about 1,675,000 Sards), you know […more…]

Hey Mark! Whoa Mario! About Those Potato Gnocchi…

 Posted by at 11:21 pm  16 Responses »
Mar 212013
 
Hey Mark! Whoa Mario! About Those Potato Gnocchi...

If you had a look at Mark Bittman’s recent New York Times column about potato gnocchi, this post is for you. Mark and I are old friends from his Cook’s magazine days when we worked on some stories together. Since then, you and I have seen him on a dazzling journey in the world of food. He’s no slouch when it comes to cooking Italian. But about gnocchi specifically, and his recent article with Mario Batali… some input and insights—I’ve been on my own journey with the little dumpling. Continue reading and you’ll find how my own potato gnocchi (gnocchi di […more…]

Of Empanadas and Goliaths: Señora Rosenda and the Soy Barons

 Posted by at 4:01 pm  4 Responses »
Mar 082013
 
Of Empanadas and Goliaths: Señora Rosenda and the Soy Barons

I’ve never met Señora Rosenda, the master empanadera of my last post, nor eaten her empanadas, but she’s the stuff of legend in her corner of Santiago del Estero, on the northern steppes of Argentina. I heard about her from my daughter, Celina, who went to stay with the campesina one recent winter in the scrubby northern flatlands, called the mato, which were once in the shadow of the Incas. When I asked Celina what went into Señora Rosenda’s empanadas, she didn’t know. Instead, she told me this story. Today, this corner of the world is in the shadows of a different […more…]

In case you missed it: “The ultimate in literary food porn”

 Posted by at 2:51 pm  6 Responses »
Mar 062013
 
In case you missed it: "The ultimate in literary food porn"

Well, this morning I “googled” myself and what pops up?  a New York Times “Diner’s Journal” entry dated April 2012 calling my post, An Unordinary Cooking Lesson, “The ultimate in literary food porn”! I’m flattered, I guess! If you missed that one, read it HERE. The ultimate in literary food porn: photos of a day spent cooking with the Duchess of Palma in her Sicilian palazzo. Click to find the connection to “Il Gattopardo,” the great novel of the end of European aristocracy. — Julia Moskin